Post by sirknight on Dec 20, 2009 10:55:25 GMT -6
This is a general topic that has been a problem with some hobbyist, green algae growing on rocks and sand.
here are some of the reasons and what you can do to prevent it.
1) If your tank has cycled, have you checked your nitrate levels?
2) how about your phosphates levels
3) Are you using tap water to make your saltwater
4) Is your tank over stocked?
5) Are you using a good protein skimmer?
6) how about lighting what lighting and what spectrum?
Now here are ways to control your problem.
When it comes to algae some people think that their bulbs are the main problem although it can be a contributer it is normally not the main problem. Algae needs food.
When you ask what their phosphate levels are they say 0, that is because the algae has used it as food.
This also wholes true for nitrates.
So now you are saying to yourself if I can't get readings what do I do.
Well the first thing that I ask is where are you getting your water from. If they say tap water or water from a LFS, I break it down as follows. Have you check the phosphate levels and nitrate levels in your water change water 9 out of 10 times they haven't. When they do this maybe the problem. How do you fix this problem or prevent it in the future? Well it is very simple, make your own water.
If you can spend hundreds of dollars on fish, corals and inverts, don't you think you can spend $150.00 on a good RO/DI system, to get the best water possible?
You know you have a good RO/DI system when you use a TDS meter (Yes you need to buy one, A hand held model is around $20.00 ) and your reading is zero. By making your own water you now know you are starting with very clean water.
Next as you know fish, inverts, and corals feed and they do produce waste. This has to be removed, you say how, water changes, protein skimming and see below (yes you need them all IMO).
Now, here is one that a lot of people don't think about, Live rock.
In time live rock will produce phosphates. Now what do you do?
I am not saying it is time to change you live rock, what I am saying is you need to balance the problem. This can be done with phosphate removers. I like using a reactor and a good brand of GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide). I don't recommend an aluminum base product because they have a detrimental effect on corals. When I use this product I run it 24/7 and replace as needed (monthly for me). I know of some people that place the GFO in a media bag and place it in their sumps. I have never tried this but I do think it could cause problems so the reactor is my recommendation.
The next thing I recommend is a good carbon, not pellets but a granulated type (not found in LFS). this will remove pollutants from the tank. Again change it monthly. I use it 24/7. if your tank is yellow use small amount until your water is crystal clear. The reason for not cleaning your tank fast if it has corals is, you are increasing water clarity and in turn increasing light penetration. Which it turn could burn your corals. So what is my bottom line on carbons use them from the start.
Lighting, most bulbs will have a usable life. Then after a period of time they will start to shift their spectrum. When they go to the Red side of the spectrum is when you start having problems, either with corals or algae. If you have taken care of the other problems you will see your corals starting to brown out, just be careful when you replace your bulbs (This is a thread for another time). So did the bulbs cause your problem, NO, it was just making it easier for algae to grow.
Enough for now
Joe
here are some of the reasons and what you can do to prevent it.
1) If your tank has cycled, have you checked your nitrate levels?
2) how about your phosphates levels
3) Are you using tap water to make your saltwater
4) Is your tank over stocked?
5) Are you using a good protein skimmer?
6) how about lighting what lighting and what spectrum?
Now here are ways to control your problem.
When it comes to algae some people think that their bulbs are the main problem although it can be a contributer it is normally not the main problem. Algae needs food.
When you ask what their phosphate levels are they say 0, that is because the algae has used it as food.
This also wholes true for nitrates.
So now you are saying to yourself if I can't get readings what do I do.
Well the first thing that I ask is where are you getting your water from. If they say tap water or water from a LFS, I break it down as follows. Have you check the phosphate levels and nitrate levels in your water change water 9 out of 10 times they haven't. When they do this maybe the problem. How do you fix this problem or prevent it in the future? Well it is very simple, make your own water.
If you can spend hundreds of dollars on fish, corals and inverts, don't you think you can spend $150.00 on a good RO/DI system, to get the best water possible?
You know you have a good RO/DI system when you use a TDS meter (Yes you need to buy one, A hand held model is around $20.00 ) and your reading is zero. By making your own water you now know you are starting with very clean water.
Next as you know fish, inverts, and corals feed and they do produce waste. This has to be removed, you say how, water changes, protein skimming and see below (yes you need them all IMO).
Now, here is one that a lot of people don't think about, Live rock.
In time live rock will produce phosphates. Now what do you do?
I am not saying it is time to change you live rock, what I am saying is you need to balance the problem. This can be done with phosphate removers. I like using a reactor and a good brand of GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide). I don't recommend an aluminum base product because they have a detrimental effect on corals. When I use this product I run it 24/7 and replace as needed (monthly for me). I know of some people that place the GFO in a media bag and place it in their sumps. I have never tried this but I do think it could cause problems so the reactor is my recommendation.
The next thing I recommend is a good carbon, not pellets but a granulated type (not found in LFS). this will remove pollutants from the tank. Again change it monthly. I use it 24/7. if your tank is yellow use small amount until your water is crystal clear. The reason for not cleaning your tank fast if it has corals is, you are increasing water clarity and in turn increasing light penetration. Which it turn could burn your corals. So what is my bottom line on carbons use them from the start.
Lighting, most bulbs will have a usable life. Then after a period of time they will start to shift their spectrum. When they go to the Red side of the spectrum is when you start having problems, either with corals or algae. If you have taken care of the other problems you will see your corals starting to brown out, just be careful when you replace your bulbs (This is a thread for another time). So did the bulbs cause your problem, NO, it was just making it easier for algae to grow.
Enough for now
Joe
