|
Post by glenoweth on Oct 8, 2011 22:41:02 GMT -6
Looking to get a cheap macro lens. Looked up the one you got jon but 600$ is way out of my price range. are these cheaper ones any good? I need it for a D70, the D70 was the best deal I could find. Paid 180$ for it with the 18-55 lens.
|
|
|
Post by glenoweth on Oct 8, 2011 22:53:33 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by rickl on Oct 9, 2011 6:44:32 GMT -6
Is a fisheye lens what you want? It doesn't look like a good fish photography lens to me, but then I've never done much fish photography!
-Rick (the armchair aquarist)
|
|
|
Post by glenoweth on Oct 9, 2011 6:45:52 GMT -6
I have no clue but the other ones I see are 300-500$
|
|
|
Post by jon carman on Oct 9, 2011 12:09:29 GMT -6
Do a sigma or tamron brand if you want a 105mm. They are in the $300 new so you can maybe,find a used one for $150. You could also find a 50mm lens nikon brand for $150. If you go too cheap you will regret it because it takes so long to focus you will miss all the good shots
|
|
|
Post by jon carman on Oct 9, 2011 12:16:24 GMT -6
I looked at the ebay one, and i dont know how well it would work, i would look for reviews on,it.
|
|
|
Post by glenoweth on Oct 9, 2011 18:44:08 GMT -6
yeah, I think i will just fork out the cash and get a nice one... I am already commited so might as well not chimp now.
|
|
|
Post by glenoweth on Oct 9, 2011 18:44:56 GMT -6
question though jon, what is best the 105mm or 50mm? explain the diff please.
Also what do filters do? and do u use any?
|
|
|
Post by glenoweth on Oct 9, 2011 18:54:31 GMT -6
|
|
|
Post by jon carman on Oct 9, 2011 19:21:47 GMT -6
I would get the 50mm nikon if I wanted best value.
Difference is speed of focus, vibration technology, lens coating, and quality of construction.
I dont use a filter that much, they shade. I use a polarizing filter when at the beach or when it is bright outside
|
|
|
Post by glenoweth on Oct 9, 2011 19:53:28 GMT -6
Oh ok well then the lens that i am getting with my camera will be good enough? it seems like alot of people write good review about it.
Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm Lens 1:3.5-5.6 GIIED Lens <!---- the lens I am getting with the camera.
If this is the case then I need to know what type of equipment you bought to make the flash box ,and to set it off please. I thought u said it was some type of strobe? (the light in teh gutter box) also do I need to buy the flash remote thing? what else I need to buy to get this set up ready for fish taking! =)
|
|
|
Post by fishguy on Dec 20, 2011 0:14:59 GMT -6
Glen, Did you ever get that macro lens? If you're still shopping, let me share some advice. A big difference between the 50 and 105 is, of course, the focal length or zoom. A 50mm lens sees things at about the same zoom factor as the human eye. The 105 is longer and shows your subjects zoomed in much more. That translates into how close you have to get to your subject to make it fill the frame. For shy subjects the 105 has the advantage of being able to get the same shot from farther away. But you pay extra for that. You can get even longer macro lenses than 105 - the insect shooters really prefer them. Your kit lens is a decent all-purpose lens but is not a macro lens. It probably won't focus close enough to your fish to get the pictures you are dreaming of. You wont be able to do things with it like take a close-up of a fish face that will fill the whole shot. As for the whole gutter, strobe, flash thing for aquarium photography there are lots of posts on photography forums out there with variations on the idea. Here's one I quickly dug up. I haven't done this, so I can't say how great this one is. It'll give you a good idea of how to do it, though. www.aquatic-photography.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-15038.html?s=6d85fe1a40a662bf3a228bbaa310012c. Basically you rig a couple of strobes on either end of a piece of gutter that hangs across your tank. The strobes are triggered by your camera's flash. Strobes are pretty cheap - much cheaper than a flash unit. You'd get tons of light with this kind of setup which really makes a huge difference. Getting enough light is really the most important thing you can do to go from blurry shots to crazy sharp shots that bring out all the little details. For macro photography, you'd typically use very, very small apertures to get good depth of field (like f16 or smaller). Small apertures choke down the amount of light hitting the camera sensor, so you need much more light to get a good exposure and depth in macro shooting than with a "normal" outdoor shot with a non-macro lens. If you'd like, PM me if you have questions about your camera. I've been a Nikon guy for quite a while and can maybe offer a tip or two.
|
|
|
Post by glenoweth on Dec 20, 2011 16:28:45 GMT -6
Thanks for all the info, I am still in the mark tring out a few Diff ones form where i work over the next week, and will work making a strobe box also.
|
|
|
Post by fishguy on Dec 21, 2011 0:34:54 GMT -6
Do a post on that strobe box as you make it. I'd really like to see one being assembled and then some before and after shots to show the difference it makes in the images.
|
|
|
Post by ree123 on Dec 21, 2011 11:33:06 GMT -6
Go to....................
Message Board :: PICS & VIDEO :: Photography Tips/Chat :: Bounce box
|
|