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Post by charden on Nov 22, 2011 11:03:12 GMT -6
OK so maybe you guys can help me out. After I set up my 125 I have had continious issue with filtratration. I finally decided on an Eshopps Wet/Dry Filter rated for 300g and a Fluval 405 Canister filter. I am getting plenty of surface movement now but for some reason my water isnt anywhere near clear. If you look from the side you can barely see the other side. Today I cleaned the sponges on my 405 and the pads on my Wet/Dry. After I plugged it all back in the water got worse. I have this film that is in the return section of my sump that is starting to foam up and has this oily look to it. I am concerned that the water in the return section being stagnant that it may be causeing my water clarity issues. Any ideas or help?
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Post by glenoweth on Nov 22, 2011 13:37:29 GMT -6
Maybe some pics of what the filter is doing. I dont use wet/dry so im not sure here. This is the tank that had sand in it right? seems somethign is forsure wrong, or you keep having small cycles.
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Post by charden on Nov 22, 2011 13:47:10 GMT -6
yes it is. Any idea what could be causing mini cycle?
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Post by rickl on Nov 22, 2011 15:25:39 GMT -6
Do you have fish in the tank? What are you parameters like (amm, nitrite, nitrate, etc)? Can you post a photo of the sump? It sounds like you may need some mechanical filtration, which a wet/dry CAN provide, but doesn't always depending on how it's set up. Oily/foamy business in the wet/dry sounds like you've got some fierce organic content in the water -- in saltwater they use protein skimmers to purposefully make that stuff and capture it in a cup to get it out of the water.
How long has this tank been set up? What is the stocking level? What is your maintenance schedule like?
-Rick (the armchair aquarist)
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Post by charden on Nov 22, 2011 17:43:03 GMT -6
My stock list is: 1 German Red Peacock 1 Burundi Frontosa 1 Insignus Hap 2 Venestus 3 Livingstonii 2 Deep Water Hap 3 Moorii Hap 1 Electric Yellow Lab 2 Striped Rafeal Cats 2 Common Plecostumus 1 OB Peacock 2 Fire Haps 1 Yellow Fin Borleyi My water parameters are 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 20 Nitrate 8.0 PH I amusing my 405 for Mechanical Filtration and Chemical filtration. Here are pics: Hazy Water  Particles  Sump Return  Setup  The tank has been set up for over a month. The wet/Dry for 2 weeks. I only feed once a day and do a water change of 40% about twice a month. |
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Post by crazydaz on Nov 22, 2011 21:02:32 GMT -6
What is your lighting and how long is it on? The hazy water may be an algae bloom, which is pretty common when you get to the "nitrate" stage of your cycle. If so, then a black out of the tank for five straight days is all you need to clear the water up. If you are running your lights more than 8-9 hours, cut it down to 7-8 hours for a while following the black out. A "black out" needs to be just that" completely dark!! No ambient light, or else it won't work. Feed your fish every other day, and no more than 5-10 minutes of light for feeding. Keep food amount low, as extra food will act as fertilizer for algae.
Oily residue on top of the surface can be absorbed by newspaper, but it is likely a protein scum. Not harmful, but it is annoying. Usually goes away on its own after a while.
Haze could be from a bacterial bloom as well, especially if it is "white-ish." I have found this to be the case sometimes if I am using driftwood that is "new" or I forgot to clean before dumping into my tank. Simple antibiotic treatment would be helpful for clearing that up, but it will die on its own after a while. Probably not harmful to the fish, but like the protein scum on the surface, it gets in the way of the aethetics.
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Post by charden on Nov 22, 2011 21:08:12 GMT -6
My lights are on a timer that cuts on at 10 and off at 9...So I need to unplug my lights for 5 days to clear the water?
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Post by crazydaz on Nov 22, 2011 21:36:19 GMT -6
I would start with that, but make sure that the tank isn't getting light at all. If it is in a basement, keep all lights off, no windows, etc. I've had wrap my tank in blankets and garbage bags before. It's annoying but effective. 11 hours of light...you need to decrease that to 7 or 8 hours to start. What type of lights are you using?
of course, this is assuming the problem is algae. They do sell algaecide, too, which would negate the need to do a blackout. The problem with that is it will kill all plants and algae....your cichlids won't be able to graze.
decisions, decisions.
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Post by glenoweth on Nov 22, 2011 22:37:34 GMT -6
I have never used a wet/dry filter before, and not sure f this would work at all, but would it be a bad idea to put in a small bubble stone down in the part of the pump where the surface of the water is looking oily to help break it up? again not sure if this will help.
Also what about putting some Moss balls in the tank or in the Sump area? they stop Alge growth... I love them.
also just a question, is your Ph holding ok with the Drift wood in the tank? I have strugled with it in the pass when i had drift wood in the tank.
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Post by jtrotter77 on Nov 23, 2011 21:03:39 GMT -6
I was thinking same thing. I would cut the light off for a couple of days. Also in your sump if you have room you can try putting some plants in there and putting a small light over them when needed.
Also drift wood will darken water somewhat also.
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Post by plecoman on Nov 23, 2011 21:57:20 GMT -6
A UV sterilizer would clear the water fast. If the cloudy water is from over feeding, mini cycle, or algae bloom, the UV sterilizer will clear it up. I have 2 that I got from petsmart several years ago and I love them. When needed, I run it for a few days up to a week and the water is crystal clear.
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