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Post by bamaplants on May 29, 2012 20:56:23 GMT -6
yep rick that is how they do.. they undermine their shells to make a valley and are very landmark oriented about their territory
but back to my Lower Tech planted tank set up Fish You have your tank set up. Now give it a week or two to see how it is fairing and if the plants have established themselves and started growing. Test your water parameters and make sure they are acceptable. If this is the case and ONLY if you have also planted heavily, then you can go ahead and add a couple of algae eaters into your tank. Algae eaters go a long way toward keeping your tank algae free. This is even more the case in a tank where algae growth, if any, will be slow and the fish or others will be able to keep up with it easily. This is the case for a Low tech planted tank ( and also the mid tech) Otos are thought to be one of the best algae eating fish out there although there are other fish/inverts you could pick too (like SAE, freshwater shrimps, microcrabs, nerites, hillstream loaches). Some folks will freak at the ithought of adding fish to an “uncycled” tank, but the truth of the matter is : If you have a heavily planted tank where the plants are healthy AND growing then the plants will cycle the tank by immediately consuming any ammonia that is introduced into the system.
After 2 more weeks, Assuming all is going well and your plants are growing and look healthy you can steam on ahead and add the rest of your livestock. It would be a good idea to add them in small groups over a couple of weeks. Despite this, many people have added the entire livestock-load in one foul swoop without any issues at all.
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Post by bamaplants on May 29, 2012 21:30:37 GMT -6
OK everything I have written up to this point holds true for the Mid tech tanks as well.. The following will also hold true but with modifications on quantities and the only commercial "fert" I would suggest buying.. LOL The Mid Tech can take another.. but for now LOW TECH:
Fertilizing your tank A.K.A Dosing
If you do NOT use mineralized soil you will need to dose ferts on occasion (there was a hint there.. LOL though mineralized soil is not appropriate for deep digging cichlids).Dose your tank using the following info once a week or even once every two weeks. This is for a 20 gallon tank. If you have a different sized tank, calculate the required fert dose accordingly.
1/4 Teaspoon of Seachem Equilibrium (for traces and Calcium + Magnesium).
1/8 Teaspoon of KNO3 (Potassium Nitrate)
1/32 Teaspoon of KH2PO4 (Potassium Mono Phosphate)
Aqain, these quantities are for a 20 gallon tank.. use this to calculate for your tanks volume if different Also note that the above quantities are NOT Holy quantities to live and die by.. LOL this is just a good middle of the road quantity to start your dosing regime with
It is important to remember : since you are not going to be performing water changes ( regularly and with the quantity of partial you are used to) it is better to underestimate the required dosage. This prevents a buildup of nutrients in the tank over time. If you underestimate and notice any signs of deficiency in your plants( yellowing or small maybe slightly deformed leaves) you can increase the dose by a little bit. Also skip a fert dose once a month or at least every other month. This allows the plants to absorb any excessive nutrient build up. Remember we are only estimating and approximating how much nutrients the plants need. This occasional dose skip will reset the system in terms of nutrient levels.
As you gain more experience with low tech planted tanks and get more comfortable you can try an experiment to design your dosing regime to suit YOUR tank’s nutrient needs. Start by dosing less and less until you see visible signs of a nutrient deficiency. Once you see this, increase the dosing slightly and you will have balanced the nutrient needs of your planted tank as perfectly as possible.
To dose the ferts, buy a cheap set of measuring spoons and dose the fertilizers directly into the tank (dry). Don’t dose both Macro fertilizers (like N, P and K) and Micro (Traces) at the same time/day because they can react with each other and precipitate out ( fall out of solution) in the water column. I would suggest dosing them on different days.
Purchasing Fertilizers: I would recommend purchasing dry fertilizers such as Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) and Potassium Mono Phosphate (KH2PO4) instead of using commercial products such as the Seachem or Flourish line. You will save a lot of money by buying the dry fertilizers. 20 bucks worth of fertilizers will last you practically FOREVER! The only commercial product I would get for the LOW TECH planted Tank is Seachem Equilibrium for traces + Calcium +Magnesium. It is much easier to use Seachem Equilibrium than to dose 3 separate dry fertilizers for each trace component .
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Post by bamaplants on May 29, 2012 21:34:46 GMT -6
OK that is about it on the LOW Tech.. Tomorrow I will do the Mild modifications for Mid Tech both Flourish Excel Mid Tech and Vodka Mid Tech
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